On Photography: Sam Haskins, 1929-2009 (2024)

“A photographer went to a socialite party in New York. As he entered the front door, the host said ‘I love your pictures – they’re wonderful; you must have a fantastic camera.’ He said nothing until dinner was finished, then: ‘That was a wonderful dinner; you must have a terrific stove.” -Sam Haskins

Sam Haskins, the South African-born fashion photographer influenced the genre today well after his work from the 1960s. “Cowboy Kate” and “Five Girls” captured the soul and cemented the image of the girl next door.

Ad photographer

Sam Haskins’ career as an advertising and commercial photographer kicked off in 1953 in Johannesburg, South Africa. He shot still life and industrial. He made photos of fashion and created aerial pictures.

He ran what was among the first freelance advertising studios in South Africa.

Four books

The sixties were a busy decade for Sam Haskins. He created four books that would forever set his reputation in photography.

“Five Girls” (1962) presented a fresh way of photographing the female nude (opening photo, top row, last two images.) In it, Sam Haskins delved into black and white printing, cropping his work and designing each photo for the book. He would follow this style in future books.

“Cowboy Kate & Other Stories” (1964) Sam Haskins worked in the darkroom to use enhanced grain in his black and white prints as a medium (opening photo, bottom row, first and last images.) The book sold a million copies worldwide. The book was awarded the Prix Nadar in France the year it was published. Its influence continues as a reference for today’s photographers, filmmakers, makeup artists and fashion designers.

“November Girl” (1967) Sam Haskins experimented with collage and surrealism (opening photo, bottom row, second image.)

“African Image” (1967) Sam Haskins photographed sub-Saharan Africa — its landscape, wildlife, culture and indigenous people. He broke bones and lost two Volvo saloon cars on African dirt roads making the photos for the book.

The book is much sought after by collectors of African photography.

Haskins Posters

Sam Haskins moved to London in 1968. He and his wife Alida published an oversized book of his work on heavy-weight paper with each sheet able to be removed and used as a poster. The book was produced and released by their own company, Haskins Press in 1972.

Trendsetter

“Haskins’s work is often referenced because it offers an untroubled vision of life,” says Nick Knight, the photographer’s photographer, who has himself paid tribute to Haskins. “There’s a joie de vivre, a sexiness and hipness, that designers and photographers are always looking to tap into.”

Sam Haskins was not thrilled with how many photographers were emulating his style. Steven Meisel‘s work for Dolce & Gabbana is an example. So are the “girls just want to have fun” portraits by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

“It’s flattering,” Haskins says on the telephone from Australia, where he now lives, “but a lot of it is mindless homage. And one major fashion company recently pretended they wanted me for an ad campaign and asked to have my portfolio sent to them when they actually wanted it for their photographer to copy from. If they want the Sam Haskins look, why not hire me?”

Sources: New York Times, Sam Haskins.

Read inspirational stories about standout photographers in On Photography.

• Posted on December 11, 2022